Haifa and Akko

View of the walled city of Akko from the boat

Israel is such a small country.  While I have been staying primarily in Beer Sheva working at the Ben Gurion University of the Negev with this AMAZING group of people, last week I had a crazy travel schedule that took me from Ben Gurion to Haifa and Akko. on a Friday, on Saturday night I took a train to Beer Sheva, spent the following day in the lab and after a 3,5 hour bus ride was in Eilat preparing a talk for the Marine Laboratory.  From the Middle of Israel to the North and then to the far South.

In Haifa, I met up up with Mike Garvin (Post doc in Haifa who is from Juneau)  again who was leaving for the states and who I would not be seeing again. He is living in a little cottage behind a large Berkeley-like home owned by a wonderful Australian woman (Sandra) in her late 70s. She and Mike picked me up at the train station and we had a wonderful dinner (thanks Mike) at Fatoosh.  Wonderful to sit outside with a glass of wine and a great meal.

On Saturday Mike and I walked all over Haifa and looked at the Bahai Temple. I might try to visit the temple before I leave,





We took the train up to Akko (North of Haifa) and learned a lot about the history of this region. Its a walled city built in 1100 and had a labyrinth of tunnels winding underneath. It has a wonderful market and gorgeous views of the Mediterranean.

This fellow was selling some amazing treats.  I bought a date roll and a bit that rainbow colored thing that I gave to Sandra for her Shabbat dinner.

 I am fairly certain that this is the region of the wall that Napoleon destroyed as he tried to conquer the city.  The walls as you might have guessed are ridiculously th.ick and Napoleon was not able to take over this large port city

 They have these tiny horses that they lead around enticing you to hop on and go for a ride through the city.  This little equine did not look like he wanted any part of that.  Heck the stirrups almost reach the ground.  I never did see anyone atop the little guys.







This is a bit difficult to see but these are the underground public toilets for back in the day...not for current usage.  The holes in the ground lead directly to a large pit underneath and I did not ask all the right questions to find out what happened to "everything" after that.  I am assuming it involved Mediterranean waters coming through to rinse.

Mike and I rounded a corner in the old city and found this man atop a horse (a normal sized one) and behind him (not in the picture) were hundreds of women clapping their hands and following him through the narrow streets of Akko.

 Here is a better view of his fan base.  Mike and I think it was a pre-wedding ceremony.

 When we entered the tunnel system there was a large sign that read "Beware: certain areas of the tunnel system may require you to Bend".  I think this was a region that they were referring to.

Token Akko cat picture

These 2 women and a guy were out beach combing in the intertidal and wanted to have a picture taken with me and Mike. After their photo shoot I asked if I could take their picture and I just like the fact that the young girl with the rose was making the peace sign above her friend's head. Many Muslim women wear pants along with the seemingly mandatory headscarves (hijab;a partition). The hijab ranges from open face to the Niquab in which most of their face covered showing only a bit of their face their eyes to the Burka which allows a women to see out but you cannot see in. I have not seen covered women wearing shorts. Young girls before puberty are allowed to let their hair fly free. It still unsettles me to see a woman in full Islamic black dress; her face and hands totally covered.

After dinner, we back tracked through the old city and it was a very different vibe.  Since it was the weekend, most Israelis were home and only the Arab community was out and about.  Stores were still open in the market but only it seemed for appearances because there was no one walking around.

The residents of Akko old town (mostly Arab) were playing soccer in the streets and Mike and I felt that there was a general calmness throughout the streets since the market was closed.  Lots of great smells as people were cooking with windows open.  I strongly suggest that you walk around Akko after hours. Its similar to walking around North Beach in SF at 3 am.

EILAT (again)

Picture is from Alison's balcony of the Red Sea and the Jordonian mountains in the background

I was invited to give a research talk at the the Inter-University Institute for Marine Science by my friend Alison (also in the Fulbright program).  She is a chemical oceanographer looking at geological cores from the Red Sea   

Alison dressed for the heat of Eilat

The marine lab is south of town about 10K from the Egyptian border.  The beach belongs to the University and it is therefore very peaceful.  I think you have seem my pictures of the public beaches with row of plastic colorful chairs and typically crowded.  Here you can go snorkeling and take advantage of th near shore  reefs.

I took some pictures underwater but I promise that the next time I am down at the Red Sea, I won't forget to charge my battery AND I will also have my charging cord with me. This is a soft coral that was growing on a wreck that we dove.  25 meters deep.  I am getting used to 100 foot visibility. Oh and warmish water.  The water is not so warm that you can get by without a wet suit but the last 3 dives I wore a shortie and only became cold after the 50 minute dive.




Back in Beer Sheva for the final month of my stay in Israel.
For more pictures of Akko (mostly) CLICK HERE